South Asia


Bangalore to chennai road
Bangalore to Chennai is a bustling route and one that I have had the pleasure of taking regularly – a regular trip would not take more than 7 hours for normal people. (Hint: I take longer, but only because I stop every 10Km like a little child) This route is common with business and official travellers as the two cities are their state’s respective capitals. However, the backpacker that I am, I have mostly taken this route for the sheer joys of traversing it. The road, which passes through the countryside of Tamil Nadu, is full of many interesting stops […]

Along the Bangalore to Chennai Route: Pitstops for a Fascinating Roadtrip


Rengma dress nagaland 2
Anyone who knows me also knows that I have an insatiable urge to chase festivals. I love large gatherings, especially if they are cultural festivals – and I never let an opportunity go past me to visit another one where large group of people flock together. “More people. Give me more people!!”, I sometimes cry in my sleep. Not really. That’s just melodrama, but you get the point.   But then, there are some festivals that I never heard of before, and never planned to visit. And when they magically fall out of a calendar right onto my lap, ahhh, […]

The Other Festival of Kohima: Ngada Festival of the Rengmas


Tibetan monastery tindolong tezu 2
It was the lure of Kibithoo that made me visit Tezu.   Many who do pan-India motorcycle rides in the North-East region of India, end up coming to Tezu. Because it is considered to be the Easternmost motorable point of India. It is not, but before I can write about Kibithoo or Kahoo, I have to write about Tezu first. Further Reading: Why was I riding towards Kibithoo? To start the epic solo K2K2K ride, from Kibithoo to Kanyakumari to Koteshwar. From Northeast, to the Extreme Northeast After my time in Nagaland, enjoying my time camping at the hornbill festival, I made […]

The Tibetans of Tindolong: Riding to Tezu, Arunachal Pradesh



Seychelles backpacking 7
“The most interesting stories are found between the pages of one’s passport”   Well, I am being repetitive, because I said that already. In this previous post about the 5 most interesting visas on my passport.   But in the same post, I had also mentioned that visas are different from entry/exit stamps. A visa is what you need to enter a country, and it may be obtained in advance, upon arrival, or as an Electronic visa. On the other hand, an entry/exit stamp is what the immigration officer gives you, to mark the date that you entered/left the country. […]

5 Interesting Entry and Exit stamps: On my Indian passport   Recently updated !


bhuli bhatiyari mahal park
If Bangkok has Khaosan road, and Kathmandu has Thamel, Paharganj is probably the most suitable equivalent for New Delhi. It was not my first time in Paharganj, Over the last 2 visits here, I have been awestruck by how the organised – and sometimes bafflingly disorganised – chaos of Paharganj attracts backpackers and travellers of all kinds. Paharganj literally means ‘hilly neighbourhood’, but there are no hills around this central Delhi neighbourhood. What it does have instead, are plenty of cheap hotels, lodges, street food, bars and the backpacking firangs who sport long hippie hairstyles and wear those elephant pants. […]

The Ghosts of Paharganj: New Delhi, India


Welcome to moreh manipur 2
If you tend to fall in the category of ‘gastronomically adventurous’, the Northeast region of India may just become your new home. The seven sister states – as they were called before Sikkim joined the party in 1975 and made it ‘eight sister states‘– of the Northeast are not only culturally different from the rest of India, but they also stand out in their culinary habits. And this holds true especially when it comes to what constitutes ‘non-vegetarian’ diet in this region. Back in my home state of Kerala in South India, there is a proverb in Malayalam which I […]

In Search of Sambhar: Riding to Moreh on the India-Myanmar border



womens chundan vallam
As everything that is good and amazing begins in Kerala, this adventure started with a glass of toddy too.   It was August of 2016. It was hot, perfect for a glass of chilled toddy (they now even have grape-flavoured versions!), and the traditional Vallam Kali (boat games) of Kerala. Which is funny when you think of it, because I hail from the northern end of Kerala. Where I come from is the bastion of communism in Southern India, but is not so much famous for boat games – which everyone in India thinks is a common sight anywhere in […]

Toddy and a bunch of boats: Glimpses from the Nehru Trophy Boat Race


Pangsau pass return 3
‘Vinegar Joe’ may have made enemies as far and wide as China and United Kingdom. But he had also left something behind for me to explore in Upper Assam. And the Indian government had made it possible to visit this place only on 3 days of the month. In my case, it was on December 30th 2017. What a way to end the year! The infamous history of the Stilwell Road After kicking off my K2K2K ride from Kibithoo, I tried to stay focused on my route and not make much too much deviations. But that resolution was broken within […]

Riding on the historic Stilwell road. Towards Pangsau Pass in Myanmar.


kisama amphitheatre 4
Woovly calls me the guy who chases festivals around the world. So, as you can relate, it was a life-long dream for me to visit the Hornbill festival in Nagaland. And it almost turned into a nightmare.   How on earth did I end up Camping at the Hornbill Festival? I was riding near Shillong in early November, and then realised that the Hornbill festival would take place in Kohima from December 1st to 10th. I wanted to get to Kibithoo by December 20th, for the K2K2K ride that I am currently on. So, the Hornbill fest looked like a […]

7 Lessons I learnt from Camping at the Hornbill Festival



Welcome to india marcelo
It was not just the weird-looking contraption that caught my fleeting attention. It was also what was written on it. “Ja Houve de Balao, Aviao, Barco, Carro, Moto e Bicicleta … Maz de skate e a 1 vez!!!” I knew a little Portuguese, thanks to 2 weeks in Brazil, and I kind of figured out the translation. It went something like, “There has been balloon, plane, boat, car, motorcycle and bicycle. But first time on a skateboard”   I sat in the arrivals section of the Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport in Kolkata, sipping a lukewarm sugary drink that […]

Meet the Brazilian skating around the world – Marcelo Silva


kariyathan para kakkayam kozhikode 4
My back was beginning to ache.   I had expected the 70 KM ride from Mahe to Vayalada to be relatively easy, given that I am used to much longer rides. And it was indeed easy, up until Balussery in Kozhikode district. But nobody warned me about the uphill and rocky climb to reach Vayalada. From Balussery, the road gradually kept winding upwards. A few kilometres before the Vayalada point, the paved roads gave way to potholed roads. As I got even closer to Vayalada, the potholed roads gave away to rocky strips. With rocks not for the faint hearted. […]

Places to visit in Kerala that you’ve never heard of: Vayalada and Kakkayam Dam


vakil mosque shiraz iran
My days of being a full-time wanderer, are behind me for now. Now that I am back in a corporate job, I try to find exciting vacations, while saving up for my next long travel. And one important factor when taking these vacations, is time. I do want to travel cheap, but I also want to maximise the time in any new place. So logically, the best option is to take a direct flight. Thus minimizing any transit time, and maximising your vacation period. Wondering where to go with an Indian passport? Click here to check out my list of […]

10 Direct flights from India, that you may not have known about!



Project365 ends today! 9
1st July 2015 – Mamallapuram, India The memories will remain etched for ever Of a year that went by in poetry and pics. But its not the places that will spring to mind. Its only – and always – the people who will stick. I thought this day would never come, but it’s day 365 today!   Its been 35 countries (and Kosovo), spread across 3 different continents. With 21 international flights, 23 international border crossings by land and couchsurfing in 20 countries. Riding a motorbike through 12000 km of the indian subcontinent, including the cold Himalayan roads of Nepal and […]

Project 365: Day 365 – That’s all, ladies and gentlemen!


Rock temples in Mamallapuram, India
30th June 2015 – Mamallapuram, India The quest is close, and one day remains Don’t judge me when I say I did nothing today. I’ve had a hell of a year, and survived it. I deserve rest in my own serene and calming way.   Maybe it was a good thing that my family visited me here.   I find myself relaxed, without any timelines to chase or to get back. So, I decided to stay one more day in Mamallapuram, and explore it a little bit with my folks. And it wasn’t so bad as I thought.   I may have […]

Project 365: Day 364 – The big day is tomorrow!


Mamallapuram, India 2
29th June 2015 – Mamallapuram, India The bullet finally saw some action. And a familiar town woke me up with a surfing beach. Familiarity and family have a similar ring, My ears are ready, for whatever it is they preach. The unthinkable does happen. Sometimes. I should have left from Mamallapuram to Chidambaram today. But a surprise call last evening from my parents, informing me that they might head here, put me off balance. I still wasn’t sure of it though.   I woke up in the morning and took the bullet outside for a short ride, looking for tea stalls to have […]

Project 365: Day 363 – Smiles abound in Mamallapuram



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28th June 2015 – Chennai, India I took the fight to the rain gods, and Came out winning, flashing a proud grin. They tried to keep me subdued, But today, I am not letting myself be pinned. Finally, I left Chennai today. But not too far, I only managed a mere 40 KMs before rain forced me to settle at Mamallapuram for the day.   But before all that happened, I stepped out for an early morning sunday breakfast at one of my favourite restaurants in Chennai. MASH is so awesome, that till date, it is one of only 3 restaurant reviews […]

Project 365: Day 362 – Till we meet again, Chennai


Rains in Chennai, India
27th June 2015 – Chennai, India There is one more adventure left for me. And I should head out soon to get into it. But the rain feels incessantly malicious today, I am going to bide my time, and just sit. I should be leaving Chennai already. The last part of my trip involved riding home to Kerala, from Chennai with my bike. But through the Southern coastal route, passing by Chidambaram, Rameshwaram, Kanyakumari, and Trivandrum. The only problem: I can’t get out of Chennai.   I should have left yesterday evening towards Mahabalipuram, but a freak rain had me grounded in the […]

Project 365: Day 361 – A rainy and lazy day in Chennai


Karl Schmiddt memorial at Elliot's beach, Chennai
26th June 2015 – Chennai, India Sunrises are totally my thing nowadays. And I go from beach to beach, looking for the best. Being back again in a beach where I found myself. Feels beyond good. Feels like I’ve earned my rest.   After hanging around the Marina beach area for 2 days in the morning recently, I needed to get back to one of my more favourite beaches.   Elliots beach in Besant Nagar, has to be the place where I have spent most of my early mornings in Chennai. In fact, there was a time during my employment days in […]

Project 365: Day 360 – To the memory of a Dutchman



Kollywood at Marina beach, Chennai
25th June 2015 – Chennai, India There was no glare of the soft box or reflectors Only the distant sight of a port city, and the rising sun. I have only watched the exaggeration on screen, But I find now that the background score is also fun.   With nothing else to do again, I stepped out Marina beach again today morning. The second time in 3 days. But I had an unexpected surprise in store today. A kollywood movie shooting.   Unlike what most of my non-Indian friends believe, India is not just Bollywood. Bollywood refers to the Hindi-language movie industry of […]

Project 365: Day 359 – Kollywood. Not Bollywood.


Santhome church in Chennai, India 5
24th June 2015 – Chennai, India Familiarity did breed contempt, thats for sure. Else how did I never check out such beautiful things? Like a forgotten teardrop on the chennai map, I finally heard the distant church bells ring. There is something very different about living in a country, and visiting there. When you live there, you are caught up in the pace of the city, and tend to ignore the beautiful things around you. But when you visit there, you are relaxed. You soak in more of the sights, you hear all the noises of the place, and you smell and feel every […]

Project 365: Day 358 – Catching up with St. Thomas


23rd June 2015 – Chennai, India Home is near, I can almost smell the fish flavour And hear the sound of my mother, crying marriage. Fortunately, there are still a few sights along the way Until the destination, and the start of a new page.   I reached Chennai last evening, and went straight to bed. I wanted to count sheep, but instead counted all the countries in the last 12 months. After 3 continents, and 35 countries, I was back home.   Well, technically, not yet. Home is still 1400 KM away, tucked in the northern regions of Kerala. And it […]

Project 365: Day 357 – Mornings at Marina



Hula hoops in Unawatuna
22nd June 2015 – Unawatuna, Sri Lanka Midnight hula hoops stretched to early morning hours, And I passed out, on a familiar beige couch. Only to wake up and say goodbye to the world. It was short and sweet, but now I head to my homely pouch.     After all the surfing and the yoga shoots yesterday, the evening continued with a barbecue, as it always happens at hostel Unawatuna. Barbecues are a pretty regular thing here. All the people in the hostel pool up some money, go out and buy some meat, charcoal and booze. And then we barbecue it up. The last […]

Project 365: Day 356 – The world is not enough


Surfing at Unawatuna, Srilanka
21st June 2015 – Unawatuna, Sri Lanka The last ten days, have come knocking. “Who’s there?“. “A little bit of sanity“, it said. Because insanity drives us to do things And to see the world on our own head.   There is something crazy about Unawatuna. I can’t simply seem to get enough of it! Yesterday, after checking in, I met with my old friends, and also made some new friends in the hostel. There were a couple of guys from England, 2 girls from Ireland, and then 3 backpackers from Perth, Australia. (Sorry about all those Perth jokes, girls). We did […]

Project 365: Day 355 – Surfing or Yoga? Both!


fort station, colombo srilanka
20th June 2015 – Colombo, Sri Lanka A familiar fort called me back today. I loved the call, but hated the timing. At 4 am when Srilanka was snoring loud, I was eating fish buns and other snacks and things. Last night, I had taken an air-conditioned bus towards Colombo, from where I was to catch a morning train towards Unawatuna. The plan had a few holes. One, the air-conditioning kind of made me nauseous, to the point that i had to open the window to get some fresh air. And secondly, it was a bumpy road. Somehow, I managed to finally […]

Project 365: Day 354 – Ungodly hours at the fort